Use the good weather to clean and repair asphalt, concrete and fences. Prune or remove problem trees and protect landscaping from deer. Conduct your own home-energy audit and put insulating foam jackets on hot-water pipes.
Take advantage of warm weather while playing or doing chores to also cast a protective eye on your home and landscaping. By paying attention, you’ll learn to spot deterioration or changes before they turn into problems.
Give your home an energy audit Take an hour to walk around your home with a notepad in hand, taking inventory of gaps and cracks. Experts estimate that you can save 20% on heating and cooling bills by plugging leaks. Start your inspection inside. Turn off the electricity at the circuit box, then remove switch-plate covers to look for gaps. (Replace them with insulated covers for $3 to $4 each or install foam inserts — also called gaskets — for about 49 cents each. Both can be purchased at hardware stores.) You can insulate phone-jack covers, too.
Next, check the junctures where windows meet walls, walls meet floors and pipes and wires enter the home, plugging gaps with caulk. Other leaky zones include fireplace dampers, mail slots, window-mounted (or wall-mounted) air conditioners, attic doors, baseboards and weather stripping surrounding doors. Look for daylight, feel for drafts and listen for rattles, all clues to escaping heat. Next, check the house from the outside, examining the places where pipes, vents or wiring enter. Examine siding for gaps or damage, paying particular attention to corners where the material joins and where it meets other materials, like chimneys, windows or the foundation.
If you’d rather get a professional checkup, call your utility company for referrals. Many utilities even provide rebates for home-energy audits performed by recommended auditors.
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Insulate hot-water pipes Insulate the hot-water pipes in the basement or crawl space to save on heating costs next winter. Insulating pipes is done by snapping foam jackets – use pre-slit, hollow-core, flexible foam pipe insulation (called “sleeves”), purchased at a hardware store. (Prices vary but, for example, a 6-foot-long piece of foam insulation for half-inch copper pipe might cost less than a dollar.) When shopping, know your pipe’s diameter to get the correct fit. See Department of Energy installation instructions. Exposed pipes pinch your wallet twice: You waste water running it as you wait for it to heat up, and you waste fuel when heat is lost as hot water runs through exposed pipes.
Tip: Slip sleeves on pipes running between the hot-water tank and the wall and also insulate cold-water pipes for the first 3 feet after they enter the house.
Clean patio furniture Mix up a bucketful of soapy bleach solution to maintain your patio furniture. Here’s the recipe:
2/3 cup trisodium phosphate (TSP)
1/3 cup laundry soap powder
A quart of bleach
Three quarts of warm water
Remove cushions before spraying. Launder removable fabric coverings. Use a rag and soft-bristle brush to remove embedded dirt on synthetic coverings, metal and wood furniture. Rinse thoroughly and let dry. Spray wicker furniture with water and protect it with paste wax. Simply shoot the garden hose at resin furniture. To remove rust from metal furniture or bolts use Naval Jelly, available at hardware stores, with a wire brush. Wear rubber gloves and follow directions on the package.
Tip: Return fabric coverings to the cushions and frames on which they belong while still damp, to prevent shrinking.
Clean concrete Power washers can be dangerous to decks (in the hands of amateurs, they can damage wood), but they’re just the tool for cleaning concrete sidewalks, driveways and patio and pool areas. If your garage or carport floor is marred by oil stains, saturate the area with a solution made from a cup of TSP mixed with a gallon of hot water. (Wear goggles and rubber gloves.) Let the solution soak for a half-hour, then scrub with a stiff-bristled brush. Rinse thoroughly and repeat as necessary.
While washing concrete, watch to ensure that the hard surface directs water away from the home’s foundation. If the concrete sends water toward the foundation, take action. First, inspect around the outside of the foundation for damage, looking for cracks and crumbling. Then check from the inside (go into the basement or crawl space) for water stains and wet soil. If water is getting into the foundation, hire a home inspector or structural engineer to help find a solution. You may need to redirect the drainage by removing or correcting the slope of the concrete. If that’s not feasible, a sump pump could be used to mechanically remove the water. A sump pump’s operation is triggered when water reaches a predetermined level under the home, setting off a floating switch.
Slip 'feet' under deck planters Since standing water rots wood, make certain that water drains directly onto the ground when you water plants in pots and decorative planters on decks. Make drainage room by setting pots on pot “feet” (sold at garden-supply stores that carry pots). Or use pot stands – some have wheels that enable you to move heavy pots. Or for a frugal solution, just prop bricks under the pots, taking care to ensure that they’re stable.
Recently moved back in with dad and am overwhelmed. No maintenance on property for over 10 to 15 years and where to start? My daughters room has carpet on the walls, yes, the sample size, put on with god knows what adhesive but the walls are slat and mortar so when I try to take off the carpet the plaster came too and I can see the slats and there are chunks of concrete?coming out of the gaps or Idk what material. so, what do I do to take off the carpet and repair my ex 20 year old stepmothers design disaster?
coldenough4you thinks that everyyear you should be checking water tanks, furnances, heaters, pipes, etc., so in the end you don't have a big problem. Most water tanks do drain out some water over the year, I know ours does. Luckily, out tanks sit in the basement on concrete, so we just put a small container under the plug. However, my parents water tank sat on their tiled flooring and over the years the water ate away at the floor, leaving them with a huge mess. Luckily because they are seniors the water tank was re-installed, flooring fixed for just their deductable on home insurance. Apparently this is not usually covered by home insurance. So it would not happen again when they replaced the water heater they set it on a round pan (kinda like a pizza pan with sides) made of non-rustable material. It would have cost them thousands to repair so I guess a little maintenance and looking around our homes for trouble spots can save in the long run.
Very good and valid information however a word of caution is in order when it comes to sealing up your house. Ventilation is critical to your health in very important ways. It makes sure that you have enough oxygen to survive. Uncirculated air becomes stale and even toxic when there is no fresh air to replace it and many heat sources consume much of the oxygen and produce CO (carbon monoxide) unless properly vented. Hair spray and spray on deodorants also contaminate the atmosphere as do many of the cleaning products commonly used in the household. Also many germs and parasites tend to thrive in warm humid closed environments. You may save a few bucks on utility bills and feel warmer in winter and cooler in summer but you may also create a cesspool of germs and contaminants that can be far more detrimental to your health.
Something positive in regards to the article. Adding shade by trees or a man made shelter over your outside central heat and air unit may save you some money as well. Shade will reduce operating temps of your outside unit, and possible extent the life of the unit. As far as hot water heaters, depends on the minerals in your drinking water whether or not you half to drain it very often or not. my two cents..
Be prepared to take this article to heart and to the Bank if Cap and Trade legislation gets passed. My home was built in 1892 and was originally out in the country. In the mid 50's my house was moved into town. The original house was only 2 large rooms and when it was brought to town it was set on an existing foundation with a half basement, which is were the rest of the house was enlarged with an addition over the half basement. My ramble and rant is that, it has taken me 15 years to slowly modernize this OLD HOUSE. New windows, insulation, removal of old plasterboard and installation of modern sheetrock and a slew of other upgrades have taken there toll on me and my bank account. If I decide to sell my old house in the FREE MARKET I will have to deal with other issues our Government Energy inspector deems fit before I can sell. Please do not support this proposed bill. It will kill any hopes of the housing market to rebound and will have resounding effects on our economy. Just not a good time to spend our children and grandchildren's money they haven't even earned yet. My two cents.
a rumbling hot water tank can also mean it's simply boiling the water properly or that it is even set too high (i.e. over-heating the water). you can reduce expense by lowering the thermostat on the tank. either way not draining it may not necessarily reduce the life (because the tank lining is glass) but the sediment can insulate the bottom from the gas flame, requiring much more gas to heat it (and at the same time, dampening that rumbling noise) , and if electric, very hard water will encase your elements and create a layer of limestone at the bottom that reduces tank volume, require much more electricity to heat, and eventually short-circuit the elements. better to replace the elements every few years for about $15 each. They simply unscrew out of the tank. If you do it yourself, just remember to turn off your circuit breaker before you drain the tank and cut off water flow to and from the tank before you drain the very hot water. then while your elemetns are removed you can flush out or try to scoop out the sediment that is too solidified to come out the drain valve.
Draining a small amount of water can be questionable. I had a water heater that was only 3 years old, drained it every year and the thing rumbled like crazy.
The house I'm in now more than likely never had the water heater drained (or even a little bit). I haven't done it in 3 years and don't intend to do so its on year 15.
yes drain your hot water heater of about 3-5 gallons once a year (drain is at the bottom) - if dirt or discoloration comes out be sure to drain until the water flows clear.
Hot water tanks have some kind of drainage port @ the base of them where mineral deposits can be drained or flushed out to keep the flow going cleaner instead of greener. Is that, or should it be, an annual event like replacing the furnace filters before they are required to be used again in the fall & or winter?
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Corcoran Group founder Barbara Corcoran, real estate attorney Bob Massi, The Agency CEO Mauricio Umanksy and The Campins Company co-founder Katrina Campins on the weather’s impact on housing.
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A strategy that a lot of people hope will help save them money in the long run isn't the smartest use of your hard-earned dollars, one expert says.
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FBN's Jo Ling Kent, Corcoran Group founder Barbara Corcoran, real estate attorney Bob Massi, The Agency CEO Mauricio Umanksy and The Campins Company co-founder Katrina Campins on institutional investors influencing home prices.